In the future, how will we define meat?
本月初的某个夜晚，我在家中准备了一份沙拉，其中的模拟鸡肉由豌豆蛋白和大豆蛋白制成。随后，我又吃了一些由杏仁奶制成的奶酪——值得一提的是，我在全食超市（Whole Foods）发现它被摆放在乳制品卡芒贝尔奶酪和布里奶酪旁边，而非陈列在纯素食品区，这恰恰印证了它以假乱真的逼真程度。附近还有一款同样以豌豆蛋白为基底的蛋黄酱。不久之后，这些产品或将迎来两位新伙伴：一款部分由酵母菌生产的牛奶，以及一款由培养基中培育的肉类制成的薯片。在思考这些食品时，我有时难以判断它们究竟在多大程度上具备所模仿食物的本质属性。坚果奶酪中有几分”奶酪性”？酵母牛奶中又有几分”牛奶性”？更根本的问题是，这种本质究竟该如何界定？有那么一刻，这些食材——鸡肉、豌豆、牛奶、杏仁——在我眼中不过是某种基本营养基质的不同变体，而那些名称也变成了一堆模糊飘离、失去所指的能指符号。
有那么一刻，这些食材——鸡肉、豌豆、牛奶、杏仁——在我眼中不过是某种基本营养基质的不同变体。
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